From Kalikata to Calcutta to Kolkata – the city that lies on the eastern banks of the Hooghly River, the western distributary of the Ganga. Once the capital of British ruled India, the city is believed to have derived its name Kalikata from the Bengali word ‘Kalikshetra‘, meaning “the land of Goddess Kali.” The Britishers anglicized it to Calcutta till we reclaimed the regional flavour by going back to Kolkata. For us Bongs the city has always been Kolkata, it was however officially renamed so in 2001. Sampling Kolkata, or a popular heritage seeped corner of it, by walking down the College Street.
Though I am a Bengali I have never lived in Kolkata for long. Growing up in Agartala and spending most of my adult life in NCR I more a Probashi Bangali, a Bengali who has lived away from Bengal. The city however has always drawn me. Be it the food, the people, the culture or the lingering colonial heritage, the city touches me the moment I step out of the airport. I can almost breathe Kolkata and feel at home, that’s probably the charm of the city of joy.
Kolkata is a city where heritage blends effortlessly with the modern. Not just the legacy structures like the Victoria Memorial or Fort William, a walk down the Park Street and bakeries like Flurys can take you back to the old times. Though I complained about the slow service, I enjoyed sitting in Flurys and seeping in the different flavours both colonial and modern and the distinct flavour of Kolkata that is inimitable.
I visit Kolkata often, but I always feel I haven’t explored the city enough. It has so much to offer in every corner, in every lane, so much that has remained unchanged though the city has progressed. I have always wished to walk the lanes of city, sampling Kolkata, with someone who knew the city and loved the city as much. And my prayers were answered during this visit.
I visited Kolkata this time to celebrate the 16th birthday of my niece Ria. Though it wasn’t planned, day after the birthday celebrations we happened to go to College Street on some errand. My sister in law Rita who grew up in the city offered to be our guide. Rita knows every lane of College Street – the shops old and new, the heritage eateries, the old buildings and more. A walk down the College Street with Rita is indeed an experience I cherish!
Since it was 26th January the lanes were not very crowded. We decided to leave the car and walk the lanes to experience the city. sampling Kolkata’s intellectual hub, College Street. The old houses of Kolkata, still inhabited, caught my eyes. Some are breaking down yet to beautiful. I sincerely hope the city will do something to preserve these building. The legendary Coffee House came next. It was intellectual hub of Kolkata once, breeding ground of several political and cultural movements. Many famous personalities once frequented this place. There was once so many anecdotes and songs around the Coffee House – Manna Dey’s Coffee Houser’ Shei Adda ta. For Adda then was not just idle gossip but meaningful conversations.
Opposite Coffee House is the iconic Presidency College (now Presidency University). This college was once the most sought after seat for higher education. Though still considered to be among the good colleges in the country, higher education in Kolkata is unfortunately not what it used to be.
From Presidency College we walked through the second book shops to one of the oldest saree shops in Kolkata, Adi Mohini Mohan Kanjilal. After picking up dhakai jamdani and muslin jamdani sarees from there it was time for a snack break. Rita took us to a heritage eatery Dilkhusa Cabin that was founded in 1900. Famous for Fish Kabiraji – fish wrapped in a coating of crunchy deep-fried egg floss, the eatery and the menu hasn’t changed much since. While the ambience is simple, the taste and quality of food served is just unmatched. And the best part is the affordable price point that add to the popularity of the place.
Paramount, another heritage place, famous for juices and drinks was our next stop. After enjoying the fresh sweetness of Mango Mania and the bitter sweetness of Cocoa Malai we walked back to our car. I walked slowing trying to seep in as much as I could, savouring the varied flavours of Kolkata’s College Street.